Oct 30, 2005 - Kathmandu



Today was a nice lazy day hanging around the KGH. After a breakfast with everyone, Matt and Freya left for their hotel and Dave, Mike, and I just hung out and read in the garden. After lunch, Anna went with us to go shopping and I picked up a few more scarves, etc. Afterward, I went with Anna to find posters and once again met up with Matt and Freya. Hung out with them for a while (met up with them again in the evening) so it was nice overall. Went to dinner with just Mike & Dave back to "New Orleans" and had Rosemary Chicken. It was a nice relaxing day, but it was sure sad to see everyone going their separate ways. We also got to see Kamal briefly and also Gambu, who was getting ready to go again to Everest. His new group didn't look as fun or as fit as we did!! :) One fellow asked is if it was hard. Um, yeah. Yes, it is...



This was "our" table at the cafe at the Kathmandu Guest House. Good thing nobody's using it!!

*apologies for the delay in posts - Blogger was not working for me the last couple of days*

Oct 29/05 - The Monkey Temple



Today we had breakfast and then rented some mountain bikes to drive to the Monkey Temple. What an experience! The drive there was thrilling with the people and traffic - it was an adrendaline rush! After a while, you start to get the feel of it though and just go for it. The Monkey Temple was interesting - a mix of Hindu & Buddhist places of worship/ritual all at the summit of a hill. A few monkeys around, but not a lot. Lots of beggars and sellers, though.

On the way back, we went a different way and went through some of the back streets - the poverty was staggering. We went along a river which smelled like... uh, it smelled. Matt said he saw a dead girl lying by the street. Anyway, the group got separated and Roly and I were lost!! We got stuck in a big traffic jam, then had to start asking directions from various people. It was like being on The Amazing Race!! We finally found some military guys to ask and the pointed us toward Thamel. Then we met a traffic guard and a bystander, who argued about which way to go. We followed the advice of the bystander! And then we started to recognize stuff so we knew we were on the right track. We made it back to Kathmandu Guest House and withing a few minutes Gambu arrived back and was greatly relieved. Everyone else was relieved as well! It was a real adventure! But everything turned out well in the end.

After, we just relaxed for a while and then went to dinner at "New Orleans" which was a very nice restaurant just down the street. It was amazing how peaceful and nice it was, just yards from the craziness of the streets of Thamel. It was Matt's birthday and Anna had bought a cake, etc. for him, so it was very nice.

Oct 28, 2005 - Lukla to Kathmandu



Today we left Lukla by air back to Kathmandu. The Lukla airport was chaos - people waiting for flights, no one at the check in counters - it seemed like a free for all. It was amazing how many planes manoeuvered in such a small space, all the while the "clipboard guy" was running between them. We finally left and had a smooth flight back - we got a special bus back to the Kathmandu Guest House and checked in and had a shower, which was GREAT! Just relaxed and then had dinner together at the Everest Steak House which was a nice change after so long. Went to "Tom & Jerry's" bar afterward, but I didn't stay long & went back to check email & go to bed.

Answer to Gambu's riddle: The fourth caterpiller is lying! I know - Sherpa humour, I guess...

Oct 27, 2005 - Phakding to Lukla



Today was a short trek from Phakding to Lukla. I wasn't feeling too well this morning as this was the worst day of my cold. Freya gave me a cold tablet which worked well - almost TOO well - it works like Contac C, so I feel kind of stoned. We arrived in Lukla to improving weather, so the planes are flying, which is a good sign.

The hike was only about 3 hours, so we were in Lukla for lunch. I had some good onions and an odd grilled cheese. For the afternoon, we went for a walk and went to watch a plane take off, then we went and played snooker with Gambu and Kamal. It seemed odd playing snooker with chickens clucking outside. I had a nap this afternoon (to shake off the narcotics) and now we're sitting down to supper. (Pizza and tomato soup - we'll see how that turns out!)

Saw Sherpa coin trick and thinking about Gambu's caterpillar question - 1st caterpiller says 3 behind, 2nd says 2 behind, Third says 1 behind, but the fourth says four behind. Why?

(I'll tell you tomorrow)

Oct 26, 2005 - Namche to Phakding




Today we left Namche pretty late after a bit of shopping and so on. Bought a couple of yak bells. Then we left in partly cloudy skies, but the clouds seemed to descend and it was fairly damp for the rest of the day. We hiked until about 3:30, when we reached Phakding. I am still not feeling well, (my cold) so I had a little nap before dinner. It's been a pretty uneventful day so there's not a lot to report. It's too bad for a lot of the people going up today, since the views are very restricted. We had our last glimpse of Everest through the clouds on the way down from Namche. No more views!
Tomorrow, we will leave for Lukla for the last full day of our trek - if the weather is okay! If it is very cloudy, we may have to stay over another day.

Dave, trying to pick up a 200+lb. porter load

Oct 25, 2005 - Orchos to Namche



Today, we really hiked a long way today - all the way from Orchos to Namche. It was a long day, but having a hot shower in Namche was well worth it. The scenery was beautiful today especially in the morning when it was clear. As the fog (clouds) descended, the hillsides really started to look like home, with the river at the bottom and the Fall foliage on the hillsides. We arrived at Namche about 4:30pm and after getting the rooms together, Dave, Mike and I went to get money changed and send some emails. Then we came back and ordered dinner and had a shower. For dinner, we had a small birthday party for Freya. It was fun and I think she really enjoyed it. Tonight we went and played pool at the "Paradise Bar" which is what is considered a hotspot in Namche! It even had flashing lights around the sign!! Just reading a bit tonight and we are allowed to sleep in a bit.

The Tengboche Monastery

Oct 24, 2005 - Gorak Shep to Orchos



I didn't go to Kala Pattar this morning, since no one else wanted to go. However, in the end, it was a good thing, since I was feeling terrible and was anxious to get to a lower elevation. I had to terrible feeling of malaise, which I attributed to the altitude and to a cold which seems to be worsening. I have had sniffles all day and now feel generally terrible. It was a fairly easy walk today back to Orchos, though. However, it was very windy and I think that bothered me even more. It does feel good to get down to a lower elevation, though. I am looking forward to having a hot shower and clean clothes in Namche. I wish I had something more inspiring to write. If anyone ever reads this besides me, I'm sure it is a terrible disappointment - It's more to jog my own memory than anything else. I do find myself today missing a lot of things from home - family, Bart, even my Jeep. Only another week, I suppose...

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Oct 23, 2005 - Everest Base Camp, Elevation 17,600 ft.
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This is the day! We made it! All 8 of us made it to EBC, but it was one of the hardest things.. no, THE hardest thing I have ever done. We started out with a pretty long, tiring hike from Lobuche to Gorak Shep, where we had brunch and then headed for Base Camp. The trail was rocky & rough, although I've seen worse, but the altitude was taking all my energy. Every footstep was an effort. I had to reach down to depths I didn't know I had, just to get there. Then we had to make it back!! I was a great relief and event to make it to Base Camp, but our elation was tempered by our altitude fatigue. I don't know if I've ever felt so bad. The effect of 49% oxygen, I suppose. We did make it back though, but I didn't feel like having dinner. I cannot remember now, a day later, even what I had. But, all in all, we can say that we did it!

Here's a couple of videos that Dave took just before and at Base Camp.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J4RSBNMbH98
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLXGAHtXYaw

Oct 22, 2005 - Lobuche



Today we left for Lobuche, and it have to say it was one of the hardest days of my life, physically. I am really starting to feel the effects of altitude, but I did manage to take a couple of Advil which made me feel some better. However, toward the "end" of the hike, I really felt terrible, especially during the last 1/2 hour. I was really thinking that I wasn't going to make it. We did though, and after a break and lunch I felt much better.

In the afternoon, we walked up to the ridge and looked down the Khumbu Glacier. It was amazing! You could see up to the Khumbu Icefall, Base Camp, and Kala Pattar. As you looked around, you could see nothing but mountains. I really had a tear in my eye. Also, I felt greatly strengthened that our goal was in sight. We're almost there! Tomorrow it is on to Base Camp! Maybe it is just the altitude, but I'm almost giddy with excitement. Everyone on the team had a pretty bad day, but everyone seems pretty good now, it would be great if everyone makes it to Base Camp. I should add an interesting note from a few days ago - Dave introduced the concept of "pull my finger" to the Sherpas!! Uh-oh!

Margin note: "We saw an avalanche on this day!!

Oct 21, 2005 - Day Hike Nangkar Tshang



Today we did an acclimatization hike to Nangkar Tshang, which had a summit height of 5100m or about 16,800 ft! The sky cleared a little so that the views were actually quite good. It was a very hard climb as it was all very steep, and it had snowed through the night, so the trail was quite slippery in spots. The last part of the ascent was very rocky, like Mt. Adams (New Hampshire), and it was very slippery though (sic). I was more than ready to reach the summit as I was very winded. No real altitude sickness issues though (I don't think). I did have a headache, but it was more of a muscle tension thing, I think. Matt had given me a pill which took it away straightaway. Returned back for lunch and had a nap afterward. Now playing cards with Gambu and Kamal, and waiting for dinner. I am feeling pretty well at the moment. Hopefully, I will make it on Sunday!!

Just an extra interesting thought - who would believe that I would ever be playing cards with a bunch of Sherpas in the Himalayas! What an experience! As an added note, everyone seems to be handling the altitude okay. I hope the whole team makes it!


One of our assistant guides, Dill, near the top of Nangkar Tshang

Oct 20, 2005 - Hike to Dengboche



Started off with a beautiful morning hike from Phortse. The trail wasn't too bad. It started off steeply, but moderated. We saw some climbers that were actually at the summit of Ama Dablam! However, the clouds soon started to move in and it got quite cool Stopped at a Buddhist monastery and "toured". As we climbed to where we had lunch, the weather turned worse & started raining/snowing. Also, I was feeling quite unwell from not having eaten since breakfast. I feel I just made it to where we had lunch. However, I felt much better after and had little problem making it to the hotel where we were staying in Dengboche (4400m, 14,500 ft). We are staying at a very new teahouse which is really quite nice! The bunks are the nicest so far. We volunteered to participate in a Stanford study about the effectiveness of Diamox vs. Advil on AMS (altitude sickness). An oxygen test showed my level at 71%, which concerned me a lot, but I feel fine and Matt (who is a doctor) said not to worry about it. Everyone else's was in the 80's. Well, we'll see what happens... Playing Crazy 8's with Anna, Mike and Dave... going to bed soon. The trail today once again reminded me of Grand Canyon, but the snow this afternoon reminded me of home!

Oct 19, 2005 - Namche to Phortse



We left Namche and immediately strated climbing. Most of the first part of the trail was like the Tonto Trail in the Grand Canyon. In fact, the scenery today was really varied and when we walked by the river it even reminded me of Fundy National Park a little. We had lunch in Mong la, which is actually higher (3975m) than Phortse (3850m), where we are staying the night. Phortse is very different from Namche - very rural - definitely a lot quieter. The rooms are basic but seem comfortable. The toilet is outside and is basically a shed with a hole inside. The walls are insulated with yak dung! It may be a new decorating trend. Or not.

About to go out for a little walk around before dinner. Dave and Anna almost had a "yakcident" when 2 yaks were fighting right beside them along the trail.

Elevation: 12,672 ft!

Notes: Saw what looked like Mtn. cranberry along the trail. I will need to look that up to see if it really was.

Oct 18, 2005 Above Namche



This was an acclimatization day in Namche, so we just day hiked up a very steep trail to a ridge overlooking Khumjung, with a great view of Everest and Ama Dablam. It was tiring and I was feeling the altitude. A slow & steady pace worked though. We made it up and then descended a steep trail back to Namche, where we went to the museum. Then back to the lodge (Kala Pattar Lodge) and lunch. After lunch we just talked and then did some "shopping" along the streets. It was fun. I bought a prayer wheel and some prayer flags. I also bought a tasty cinnamon roll! We talked for a while this evening with "Gerry", who was about to make a summit attempt of Ama Dablam. Very interesting. Learning a few phrases:

jom jom - "Let's go!"
Bola manche - "crazy man"
Bolia manche - "strong man"
ruh-roh - good
Doku - basket used by porters
Dah-nee-baht - Thank you

We had a very filling dinner and then were talking to a returning group. They said it was difficult, but I am not letting that discourage me. I live for challenges!

I feel very well this evening and don't seem to feel any altitude effects. Here's hoping for nothing new on that front. One thing that I have noticed (again) is that people really are the same everywhere. There are nice ones, loud ones, quiet ones, funny ones, reserved ones, rude ones, whether in a big city or a quiet village in Nepal. It really helps me to view people as brothers and sisters because of this.

Tomorrow, on to Phortse!!

Oct 17, 2005 - "To Namche"



11,355.3 ft altitude!

Had a good breakfast today of egg & Tibetan bread. The first part of the hike was along the river and we crossed a number of bobbing, swaying suspension bridges. The last one was a couple of hundred feet above! Met some very cute kids along the way who posed for some pictures. After the last suspension bridge, we started to climb in earnest, and soon had our first view of Everest! Then we climbed and climbed - up to 3400 metres at Namche! Namche is a bustling town with many shops and teahouses. Our teahouse is quite nice with regular flush toilets! No elevation problems so far, although we had to climb pretty slowly for the last while. It's hard to describe how amazing the scenery is here - I can't believe I'm here!

Oct 16, 2005 - Start of the Trek!



We met at 8:00 after breakfast and had a good bus ride back to the airport. The airport was the domestic terminal, where it was very much like the rest of the city - bedlam! Hundreds of people and lots of confusion. Security was pretty strict - we got frisked 3 times! We got on the (rickety) Twin Otter aircraft but the flight was good - as we climbed, we actually got very close to some of the hillsides of the valley. And then the landing at Lukla! It was amazing. At the last minute, it looks like you're going to run into the runway, which slopes up. They suddenly pull up, the stall warning goes off, and you touch down - and everyone applauds! We get out and the place is amazing. The views even from here are incredible. The village of Lukla is an interesting place, too. The children are soooo cute. A couple of kids yelled "Namaste" to us as we walked by. It seems much cleaner here than in Kathmandu. We hiked to a small settlement for lunch where I had Tibetan bread w/egg, and then on to Phakding. Our teahouse is quite nice. Now just getting ready to have dinner and am chatting with our group - a nice evening.

Oct 15, 2005 Kathmandu




Had a relaxing day at the Kathmandu GH, went shopping in the late morning and it was quite an experience, with shopkeepers persuading you to come in, beggars, a sahdu who "painted" Mike, rickshaws, cars, it was sensory overload! Bought a couple of Pashmina scarves and a "Tiger Game" for folks at home. Went back to the hotel and relaxed in the garden, with a late lunch. Met up with the Intrepid group at 5:00pm and they seem to be a great bunch! Matt, Freya, Mark and Roly from OZ, and Anna from Brunei. Matt is really funny and is quite a character. Got some money changed and packed for the start of the trek. Finally got everything together!

Oct 14, 2005 Hong Kong to Kathmandu



Did not do much in HK last night, since we were all very tired. We did go "shopping" around the shopping district and it was amazing with the crowds and the incredible variety of shops. People everywhere! Our limosine service guy from last night picked us up this morning. Flight from HK to Bangkok & on to Kathmandu was very different from Air Canada. Great service and great food. Arrived in Katmandu a little late (about) 2:45 and went through immigration pretty quickly. Some strange things - had to put hand baggage through x-ray LEAVING the airport - not sure why, but it didn't seem like anyone there cared anyway.

Stepped out of the airport to get our pre-paid cab and started to get an idea of Kathmandu. I just felt like I was on TAR!! The streets are noisy and filled with cars, bikes, people, cows, dogs, you name it. The difference from HK is striking, going from an area of extreme wealth to one of obvious poverty. Horns are also used instead of brakes here apparently!

Arrived at Kathmandu Guest House which is an oasis of calm in the midst of Bedlam. An old Rana palace, it still has a certain regal air, even if our own room is more hostel than hotel. The grounds are very nice, with gardens and cafes. It's a fascinating place, really - I have never been anywhere like Kathmandu.

We haven't really done much tonight - still pretty tired, so we just hung around the cafe, ate a bit and have gone to veg - or sleep. It's only 6:30 pm!!

Oct 12-13, 2006
Saint John to Hong Kong

Everything went pretty smoothly today, flights were all on schedule and no problems! Flew from Toronto directly North over the pole and then down through Russia, Mongolia, and China. Going over the Pole was interesting - The Sun was low & almost red for a long time, Nothing but ice & snow beneath.

The flight to HK was looong! We were all very glad to get off the plane. Watched Batman Begins & Mr & Mrs Smith. Hong Kong is fascinating - really busy but very different. Our great limo driver gave us a bit of a tour on the way into town. Checked in with no problem, (the service was great) NOT sure what we are doing tonight...

"Shin chow chin chee" - Watch your step! This is what we heard at every escalator in the HK airport.

Hong Kong Shopping

Long Time, No Post

Hey everyone! It's been a while! I'm going to start blogging again for a bit - starting on Oct 13th, I'm going to post from my trip journal that I made in Nepal. Oct 13th was the date of the start of our trip this year, so this is kind of a way for me to mark the anniversary of such a remarkable experience. The posts are going to be word for word, including the altitude induced "typos" and bad grammar. I'll throw some pics in too!

Reading back over it, I don't think I was all that insightful or inspirational, but it does give some clues as to my frame of mind at the end of each day.

Keep checking back!